How to Fit Pants and Trousers
The pants worn by the man scientists call Turfan Man tell a fascinating textile story. They’re woven with several sophisticated techniques that show how ancient weavers adapted fashion influences from across Eurasia.
They predate trousers that would appear a few hundred years later in Asia. They also reveal that Turfan Man’s breeches were designed to ease the strain of riding bareback for long distances.
Origins
During the 6th C BC, nomadic tribes of men and women in central Asia wore trousers. They provided warmth, protection, and freedom of movement for these horse-riding warrior societies. They also helped conceal the legs from horses’ sharp snouts. The ancient Romans hated them and called anyone who wore them “barbarians.”
Trousers were also popular in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries with sailors who favored baggy trousers known as galligaskins. Trousers later evolved into the form we know today, slimming down to knee-level and fastening at the ankle. This design is believed to have been influenced by military uniforms, especially those worn in desert and tropical settings.
In the mid-19th Century, Paris designer Paul Poiret introduced floor-length culotte pants that resembled Turkish trousers. The fashion world quickly fell in love with them, and the fashion press dubbed them “harem pants.” The aversion to showing the legs and crotch in public soon turned into a widespread social movement that pushed for women’s rights, including wearing trousers.
The word trouser is derived from the Irish and Scottish Gaelic word for “trouse,” which also gave rise to trews, the close-fitting tartan trousers of Scottish Highlanders. The English shortened the word to pantaloons, which was an anglicization of the Italian comic character Pantalone’s name. The Americans clipped it further to pants, which has now become a standard garment designation.
Styles
Pants are a versatile piece of clothing Pants and Trousers that can be worn for both formal and casual occasions. There are several different types of pants, such as sweatpants, jeans, and khakis, each with their own unique style. Regardless of the type of pant, there are several factors that will determine how the pants fit on your body.
The most important factor is the waistline. Trousers typically have a high waistline that sits below the belly button, while slacks are lower in the waistline. Trousers also have a slimmer leg than slacks, with some having a cuff at the ankle.
Another factor is the fabric. Trousers are usually made from more formal fabrics such as wool and tweed, with a structured fit that exudes professionalism. They are often paired with a jacket and tie for formal events. Pants, on the other hand, are typically made from cotton and have a more relaxed fit.
Women can wear trousers just as well as men, and they can help them look more feminine. They may have to be more careful about the fabric they choose and the style of the pant, but they can find a pair that suits them perfectly. In addition, the right pair of trousers can make a woman feel confident and self-assured, which can have positive effects on her relationship with her partner.
Materials
Whether you’re making a pair of trousers for everyday wear or a suit, you need a strong fabric that will not lose its shape over time. The material needs to be crease resistant and have enough natural stretch so that the knees will not bag out after sitting or walking for long periods of time. This usually means a dense cloth, with more yarn tightly woven into each inch. However, some fabrics can be too dense and feel stiff and ‘dead’, which is not ideal for trousers. Technicians often test the fabric by holding it in the hand, squeezing and releasing it, to see how it reacts – how much ‘life’ it has.
There are several good materials for casual pants and trousers, including cotton, wool, silk, and Pants and Trousers linen. Some of these fabrics have a slight stretch, which makes them ideal for trousers that will be worn frequently.
Other fabrics that are suited for formal pants include corduroy and flannel. These are a little thicker than cotton and have the appearance of vertical ridges in the weave, which give the fabric a more structured look. These fabrics are often worn with a blazer and are considered to be more appropriate for dressy occasions than jeans or khakis.
The key to sewing well-fitting trousers is taking accurate body measurements. Watch this video for a step-by-step guide to measuring your waist, hips, and torso.
Fit
While there is less wiggle room in the fit of trousers than jackets, it is still important to get them right. Trousers should sit flat on the hips and be free of any creases or folds. They should also be slim enough that they don’t need a belt. They should drape well from the waist to the cuffs, but be careful not to overdo it. The degree of break is also up to personal preference, but it is best to keep it as slight as possible. A too-large break will make the crotch look large and baggy, and can give the impression that the pants were cut too short.
Another key factor is the rise of the trousers. The top should be at the natural waist (around your navel), not lower, although the low rise trend is slowly dying out and more people are opting for a higher rise. This lengthens the leg, is easier to move in, and covers your shirt for a clean look.
Finally, the trouser hem should be a good length, neither too short nor too long. It is also helpful to have the hems lined if your trousers are unfinished, and to avoid pleats – they will make the legs look sloppy. A good tailor can help with a few tweaks to achieve the perfect fit.