BM Skin Care Line
The BM skin care line enhances the skin regeneration triggered by glycolic acid and prevents premature ageing by acting with the powerful antioxidant Ubiquinone. It visibly reduces wrinkles, blemishes and redness to improve skin tone.
The basement membrane (BM) proteins collagen XVII, laminin and nidogen constitute complex insoluble scaffoldings that provide cell and tissue support. These proteins have recently been shown to be modulated by peptides.
Anti-wrinkle activity
The basement membrane (BM) is an important cell-adherent extracellular matrix connecting the epidermis and dermis. It consists of proteins, including collagen XVII, laminin and nidogen. A decrease in BM expression is associated with ageing of the skin [13]. The modulation of the BM proteins could be an interesting strategy for anti-aging cosmeceuticals.
A peptide complex composed of three peptide derivatives having stimulatory activities on different members of the BM proteins, including collagen XVII, has been shown to increase BM protein expression in vivo and ex vivo, and also improve skin wrinkles. Among the peptides, the pentapeptide derived from the laminin b1 chain (Tyrosine-Isoleucine-Glycine-Serine-Arginine) has a high activity in stimulating BM protein expression in dermal fibroblasts.
Bm Regenerate Anti-Ageing Serum is Biologi’s latest single plant ingredient serum setting new standards in anti-ageing skincare. Native Australian grown Mountain Pepper Berry enhances the skin’s natural antioxidant capacity, boosts collagen production, repairs barrier function and hydrates to gently defy visible signs of ageing.
Glycolic Plus products stimulate the skin’s own improvement capabilities by combining the powerful regenerating action of glycolic acid with ubiquinone, one of the most effective antioxidants to protect against premature ageing and oxidative stress. The daily use of these products promotes the skin hydration and compactness induced by glycolic acid, while visibly reduces thin and deep wrinkles, blemishes and redness to improve the complexion.
Biotinylated peptides
The development of peptides with beneficial biological activities is a common goal in cosmetic research. This is often achieved by derivation techniques that identify new peptide sequences with beneficial properties or add new functional groups to existing peptides. One such modification is biotinylation, which increases the stability and bioavailability of the peptides. Biotinylation also improves the ability of peptides to cross the skin barrier. In a clinical trial, a topical formulation containing the biotinylated peptides was found to reduce skin wrinkles by stimulating basement membrane proteins expression.
To test the efficacy of the peptides, aesthetic skin care epidermal keratinocytes were treated with various concentrations of the peptides in vitro. The peptides were shown to stimulate protein expression of collagen XVII, nidogen, and laminin in the dermal-epidermal junction (DEJ). However, the most significant increase in laminin expression was observed in the peptides complex that contained both BH and BT.
To further enhance the effect of the peptides, vitamin C was conjugated to the peptides via the succinyl group. This increased the activity of the peptides by stimulating dermal fibroblasts to promote the formation of basement membrane proteins. In addition, the peptides were tested in an in vivo wrinkle model. The peptides were able to reduce the depth of Crow’s feet, nasolabial folds, glabella frown lines, and horizontal neck lines. This was confirmed by the results of image analysis using an Antera 3D camera.
Vitamin C conjugated peptides
In order to develop peptides with high skin penetration, the molecule has to be modified. One method is to make the peptide biotinylated by adding a biotin molecule at the N-terminus. This modification increases the number of sites for interaction with biological substances such as lipids, vitamins and enzymes. Another modification is the addition of a chemical group such as a succinyl or ascorbic acid conjugate. These modifications also increase the stability of the peptide and its activity.
The epidermal-dermal junction (DEJ) is a structural component of the skin that provides cell adherence and supports molecular transport. BM proteins, including collagen IV, laminins and nidogens, constitute the DEJ. A decreased expression of BM proteins has been linked to aging of the skin. The development of new anti-aging ingredients that modulate the DEJ may therefore improve wrinkles.
Various peptides have been shown to stimulate BM protein expression, including the pentapeptide tyrosine-isoleucine-glycine-serine-arginine, which is derived from the laminin b1 chain and has been used in clinical studies. Moreover, several peptides that exhibit a combination of stimulating activities on different members of the BM were combined into a peptides complex and tested for ex vivo and in vivo anti-wrinkle activity.
The peptides were prepared using biotinylation, and the peptide complex was applied topically to human skin. After two weeks, the peptides demonstrated a significant anti-wrinkle effect in the neck and facial areas. This improvement was evaluated by skin topographic analysis.
Laminin-stimulating peptides
Laminin is the primary extracellular matrix component that promotes cell adhesion and migration, which are both important for wound healing. To identify peptides that stimulate these processes, the entire primary sequence of one chain of laminin (domain III of aesthetic skin care shop the B1 chain) was cloned and synthesized using a peptide synthesizer. Various synthetic peptides that bracketed the region of the domain responsible for cell adhesion were prepared and tested in vitro with HT-1080 cells. Two peptides, YIGSR and PDSGR, were found to be active in promoting cell adhesion.
The peptides were also tested in Boyden chamber assays for their ability to stimulate fibroblast migration and to inhibit expression of the pro- and active forms of matrix metalloproteinases. Both YIGSR and PDSGR were found to stimulate cell migration in the assays, and both were found to inhibit the activity of matrix metalloproteinases.
Competition studies were performed by coating dishes with fibronectin or laminin, adding peptides to the cells, and then measuring cell adhesion to the peptide-coated dish. In these assays, the peptides were tested at several concentrations in duplicate. The variation between duplicates did not exceed 15%. Increasing amounts of PDSGR and YIGSR were needed to block cell adhesion to laminin but not to fibronectin. These results indicate that the peptides are specific for the activity of laminin.
These peptides can be combined with other bioactive substances to form a formulation that can be applied as a protective or therapeutic coating to a medical device that is intended for temporary or semi-permanent entry into the body. The peptide can be incorporated into a material such as a collagen, glycosaminoglycan, or proteoglycan.